Directions on how to use Gunzilla & Copperzilla
General Directions of Use
For best results we recommend using only Gunzilla for cleaning, lubricating and protecting a weapon. Gunzilla will remove oils, greases and cleaning products used in prior cleanings. It will clean, lubricate and protect in all temperatures, but cleans faster in temperatures above 18C (65F).
How to Apply
Gunzilla can be applied with a patch, brush or spray. In heavily fouled bores a brush and/or cleaning jag of the appropriate caliber is recommended. After applying Gunzilla, run a dry patch to remove the fouling. Repeat until the dry patches are removed with no fouling on the patches. In a dry dusty environment we recommend using some additional dry patches to be sure the weapon is wiped dry. The dry coating left behind will provide lubrication and protection. If extra lubrication is required on moving parts use a lightly moistened patch with Gunzilla and run over the area or place some drops of Gunzilla where you would normally use gun oil or other lubricants.
Heavy Carbon & Plastic Fouling
For heavy carbon and plastic buildup such as the M-16 bolt area, shotgun choke tubes or cleaning corrosive ammo, we recommend applying a generous coating of Gunzilla and let it sit for 20 minutes and then remove. If some carbon or plastic is still present then repeat the application process. The first cleaning with Gunzilla will always be the slowest. Once Gunzilla has coated the gun barrel future fouling will be reduced and it will be easier for Gunzilla to break the carbon apart and separate the carbon and plastic fouling from the gun.
Cleaning Wood, Plastic Parts or Special Finishes
Prior to applying Gunzilla on any gun finish test a small area to see if the coating is affected.
It is important when using Gunzilla to clean wood or plastic gun parts to wipe Gunzilla completely dry after cleaning, it is NOT recommended to leave Gunzilla in a wet state for an extended period of time on painted, varnished or other special finished surfaces. However, Gunzilla can be left liquid on the polymer frames found in Glock handguns. The dry coating left behind will provide lubrication and protection.
Gunzilla is safe on Parkerized, blued and most wood finishes but it will remove natural rust finishes found on older muzzle loaders. Gunzilla is safe to use on the polymers in the frames of Glock handguns.
Gunzilla may remove the camouflaged paint from some camouflaged painted guns, make sure you test a small area to see if the coating is effected. Even if your test area tests okay it is still not recommended to leave Gunzilla on the camouflaged surface in a wet state for an extended period of time.
It is important when using Gunzilla to clean wood or plastic gun parts to wipe Gunzilla completely dry after cleaning, it is NOT recommended to leave Gunzilla in a wet state for an extended period of time on painted, varnished or other special finished surfaces. However, Gunzilla can be left liquid on the polymer frames found in Glock handguns. The dry coating left behind will provide lubrication and protection.
Gunzilla is safe on Parkerized, blued and most wood finishes but it will remove natural rust finishes found on older muzzle loaders. Gunzilla is safe to use on the polymers in the frames of Glock handguns.
Gunzilla may remove the camouflaged paint from some camouflaged painted guns, make sure you test a small area to see if the coating is effected. Even if your test area tests okay it is still not recommended to leave Gunzilla on the camouflaged surface in a wet state for an extended period of time.
Removing Rust
If the rust has been on the gun for less than a month Gunzilla will remove it quickly. If the rust has been on the weapon longer than a month Gunzilla will
require several coats and the area must be agitated with a plastic brush or a cleaning object that will not scratch the finish of the weapon. Allowing
Gunzilla to sit several days between scrubbing cycles will help remove heavy rust. The longer the rust has been on the weapon the longer it will take for
Gunzilla to remove the rust.
require several coats and the area must be agitated with a plastic brush or a cleaning object that will not scratch the finish of the weapon. Allowing
Gunzilla to sit several days between scrubbing cycles will help remove heavy rust. The longer the rust has been on the weapon the longer it will take for
Gunzilla to remove the rust.
Wet Environment, Salt Water and Long Term Storage
In a wet or moist environment we recommend leaving a light moist coating on all the metal parts of the gun and a heavy coating on the action parts. A light
moist coating is also recommended for a weapon being prepared for long term storage. It is NOT recommended to leave Gunzilla in a wet state for an extended period of time on painted, varnished or other special finished surfaces including wood stocks, camouflaged guns or plastic parts.
moist coating is also recommended for a weapon being prepared for long term storage. It is NOT recommended to leave Gunzilla in a wet state for an extended period of time on painted, varnished or other special finished surfaces including wood stocks, camouflaged guns or plastic parts.
Cleaning Black Powder
Gunzilla eliminates using water for cleaning and oiling for lubrication and protection. The first cleaning with Gunzilla will always be the slowest because you will be getting fouling out of the gun that has never been removed before. It is possible that Gunzilla will remove so much additional fouling that the gun will have to be re-sighted. But it will shoot more accurately when it is totally clean. For the first cleaning we recommend using a brush with a patch over the top coated with Gunzilla and then apply a generous coating on the bore. Let it sit for about 5 to 10 minutes and then dry patch the bore. Repeat this process waiting 2 minutes between the wet and dry patches until the patches start to come out with small amounts of fouling. Then put a generous coating of Gunzilla down the bore and let it sit overnight. Repeat the cleaning process the next day until the bore comes clean. If you get brown patches out of the bore don’t panic, this is just rust being removed from the bore and it is common during the first several cleanings with Gunzilla. Do not clean a browned barrel (Patina) finish with Gunzilla because this is a natural rust finish and Gunzilla removes rust. Once Gunzilla is coating a clean bore the next cleanings will be much faster and you will only have to wait 1 or 2 minutes between wet and dry patches. Once the dry patches come white you are done cleaning the gun. If the gun is going to be stored for an extended period of time leave a moist coating of Gunzilla in the bore for extra protection. Several customers have told us about leaving a muzzle-loader loaded for an extended period of time after they forgot to shoot the gun when they finished hunting. Then several months later they tried to fire the gun and it wouldn’t fire. When they physically tried to remove the powder and the bullet it refused to come out. In each case they simply poured some Gunzilla down the bore and let it sit. Then they turn the bore down and the bullet fell out and they were able to clean the rest of the black powder out of the gun with Gunzilla. The reason you do not need to use water when you clean with Gunzilla is because it neutralizes the corrosive salts while it is removing the fouling. Also, when you wipe Gunzilla dry it will automatically leave a coating for lubrication and protection.
Cleaning Corrosive Ammo
Let Gunzilla sit for 20 minutes and then remove. With some corrosive primers the effectiveness of Gunzilla can be increased by running a patch soaked in water over the parts first. Then clean with Gunzilla.
Arctic & Extreme Cold Weather Operations
Gunzilla Does Not Freeze! Below 28F or -2C degrees as a light grease Gunzilla is easy to apply with a finger exactly where it is desired. Normal cleaning and lubrication operations will not be effected by the cold temperature. Coat the action parts until slick, work the action back and forth and apply more as desired. If the weapon is stored in warm temperature and then taken into a very cold temperature we recommend a thin moist coating on all moving metal parts.
Desert & Dry Operations
Gunzilla’s effectiveness in the desert has saved lives. Clean all parts as usual, however, with a clean rag, wipe each piece as dry as possible. The dry
coating which remains will protect against the sand, dust and carbon buildup. Bolts and bolt rails may need a second application to ensure lubrication.
Machine gun bolts and rails should also be wiped dry but with some Gunzilla applied slightly damp before patrolling. While patrolling, a soft bristled paint
brush will easily remove dust and sand from around the action.
coating which remains will protect against the sand, dust and carbon buildup. Bolts and bolt rails may need a second application to ensure lubrication.
Machine gun bolts and rails should also be wiped dry but with some Gunzilla applied slightly damp before patrolling. While patrolling, a soft bristled paint
brush will easily remove dust and sand from around the action.
Copper & Lead
In many weapons Gunzilla will remove the heaviest copper and lead fouling quickly, but in some weapons it may have to sit moist on the weapon overnight.
Gunzilla doesn’t evaporate so a thin coating will be sufficient. Gunzilla removes metal fouling by getting between the metal fouling and the barrel and
lifting it out. It can be left in any metal barrel for an extended period of time without harming the barrel. Using a metal or nylon brush will help remove
the most difficult fouling. Gunzilla can be used on all metals and metal finishes including stainless, aluminum, chrome, brass and steel.
Gunzilla doesn’t evaporate so a thin coating will be sufficient. Gunzilla removes metal fouling by getting between the metal fouling and the barrel and
lifting it out. It can be left in any metal barrel for an extended period of time without harming the barrel. Using a metal or nylon brush will help remove
the most difficult fouling. Gunzilla can be used on all metals and metal finishes including stainless, aluminum, chrome, brass and steel.
Copperzilla
The majority (90%) of our Gunzilla customers will only need to use Gunzilla to clean, lubricate and protect their weapons. However if you shoot solid copper
bullets in a long range rifle, lead slugs in a shotgun or found Gunzilla to work slower than you wanted, we would recommend you use Copperzilla along with
Gunzilla. For best results use Copperzilla in temperatures above 21C (70F). Apply Copperzilla to a nylon/plastic brush or a patch and coat the bore of gun. Let it sit for 30 minutes and run a dry patch down the bore. The dry patch will come out light brown or blue/green in color. If there still appears to be copper or lead in the barrel apply Copperzilla again and let it sit for a longer period. Once the copper and lead is removed perform a normal cleaning with Gunzilla BC-10 to lubricate and protect the gun. Copperzilla is safe to use on steel, stainless steel and chrome bores only. Do not allow product to be absorbed into wood, safe on most plastic surfaces and safe on Polymer receivers of pistols (see section on Cleaning Wood, Plastic Parts or Special Finishes). Avoid prolong contact with aluminum receivers and nickel plated firearms.
bullets in a long range rifle, lead slugs in a shotgun or found Gunzilla to work slower than you wanted, we would recommend you use Copperzilla along with
Gunzilla. For best results use Copperzilla in temperatures above 21C (70F). Apply Copperzilla to a nylon/plastic brush or a patch and coat the bore of gun. Let it sit for 30 minutes and run a dry patch down the bore. The dry patch will come out light brown or blue/green in color. If there still appears to be copper or lead in the barrel apply Copperzilla again and let it sit for a longer period. Once the copper and lead is removed perform a normal cleaning with Gunzilla BC-10 to lubricate and protect the gun. Copperzilla is safe to use on steel, stainless steel and chrome bores only. Do not allow product to be absorbed into wood, safe on most plastic surfaces and safe on Polymer receivers of pistols (see section on Cleaning Wood, Plastic Parts or Special Finishes). Avoid prolong contact with aluminum receivers and nickel plated firearms.
Military

This list of weapons constitutes the bulk of American small arms in use overseas. For directions and inquiries regarding the use of Gunzilla CLP on heavy mortars, artillery, and other infantry or support weapons please email us at: gunzilla@morganproductscanada.com and we will get back with you as soon as possible.
These directions reflect the difference in the capabilities and usage of Gunzilla CLP and the current issue CLP. Gunzilla can extend the number of rounds fired between maintenance however, do not fail to clean and lubricate with the same frequency you normally would. Simply because you can confidently put it off is no excuse for poor maintenance habits. Remember, do not apply anything to the weapon besides Gunzilla, standard CLP will attract and hold sand, dust and dirt, Gunzilla will not. Sand, dust and dirt can be blown off, or dusted away with a simple paintbrush while on patrol.
M16A2 / C7A2 / M16A4 Rifles & M4 Carbine:
- The service rifle and service carbine should be broken down completely and the bolt and bolt carrier completely disassembled to the maximum allowable
level. If M203 is attached see M203 below for instructions.
- The interior of the weapon should be thoroughly soaked with Gunzilla, taking care to saturate the entire bolt assembly and its every component, the
underside of the charging handle and the inside of the upper and lower receiver. Then set these parts aside.
- Punch the bore with wet patches until they are removed clean, and then set aside leaving the bore wet.
- Wipe down the entire buffer spring assembly including the tube and take special care to wipe down the buffer spring.
- With a clean rag and cotton swabs (if available), wipe the Gunzilla off the interior of the weapon and dry off the bolt. Squirt Gunzilla on the gas rings
and leave them wet. It is very important to leave the gas rings wet.
- Reassemble the bolt. Then, saturate the bolt a second time, set aside.
- Dry patch the barrel until patches come out clean and dry.
- Leaving the interior of the bolt wet, wipe the exterior of the bolt dry and reassemble the entire weapon.
- Wipe the entire exterior of the weapon with a Gunzilla soaked rag, and then wipe as dry as possible.
- Perform a function check, the weapon is now ready for firing.
- Every cleaning after this one will be much faster.
M249 / C9 Squad Automatic Weapon & M249 Para
- The scaled-down components of the SAW mean it is much more delicate than its parent M240 series of weapons. Disassemble the weapon to
the maximum allowable level.
- The weapon should then be thoroughly soaked with Gunzilla, taking care to saturate:
1. The entire bolt assembly and its every component
2. Underside of the top cover, feed pawls and feedway
3. The inside of the receiver with emphasis on the rails
4. The gas tube, piston and gas regulator
5. Trigger assembly
6. Springs, mainspring and bolt spring
- Then set these parts aside
- Wipe down the exterior and the buffer assembly face.
- Punch the bores of both barrels with wet patches until they are removed clean, and then set aside leaving them wet.
- With a clean rag and cotton swabs (if available), wipe the Gunzilla off the interior of the receiver and gas system, and then dry off the bolt.
- Take special care to clean behind the extractor, and the feed mechanism in the top cover.
- Dry patch the barrels until patches come out clean and dry.
- Once the weapon is clean and dry, reassemble the SAW.
- Wipe the entire exterior of the weapon as dry as possible.
- With a few droplets of Gunzilla, leave the thinnest wet coating along the bolt rails, the rails should seem barely damp.
- Perform a functions check, the weapon is now ready for firing.
- It is recommended that you load cover closed.
M240G / C6 GPMG & M240B Machine Guns:
- Maintenance of the M240 systems benefit from being more robust than the diminutive SAW, however the process is essentially the same with a few
slight differences. Disassemble the weapon to the maximum allowable level.
- The weapon should then be thoroughly soaked with Gunzilla, taking care to saturate:
1. The entire bolt assembly and its every component, with special emphasis on the rollers
2. Underside of the top cover, feed pawls and feed tray
3. The inside of the receiver with emphasis on the rails and sidewalls
4. The gas tube, piston and heavily coat the gas regulator
5. Trigger assembly
6. Drive spring rod assembly
7. Ejection port mouth (M240B only)
- Then set these parts aside.
- Wipe down the exterior and the buffer assembly face.
- Punch the bores of both barrels with wet patches until they are removed clean, and then set aside leaving them wet.
- With a clean rag and cotton swabs (if available), wipe the Gunzilla off the interior of the receiver and gas system, and then dry off the bolt.
- Take special care to clean behind the extractor, and the feed mechanism in the top cover.
- Using an All-Purpose nylon brush, scrub the gas regulators. When they are clean, reapply a thin coat of Gunzilla and reinstall them onto the barrels.
Wipe the exposed exterior dry.
- Dry patch the barrels until patches come out clean and dry.
- Once the weapon has been cleaned and dried off, reassemble the M240.
- Wipe the entire exterior of the weapon as dry as possible.
- With a few droplets of Gunzilla, leave the thinnest wet coating along the bolt rails, bolt rollers and sidewall, the parts should seem barely damp.
- Perform a functions check, the weapon is now ready for firing.
- It is recommended that you load cover closed.
M2 / FN M2HB-QCB Heavy Barrel .50 cal:
- Being a recoil operated system, the M2 is easy to maintain, however, the small nature of the components means special care must be taken to keep
them in working order. Disassemble the weapon to the maximum allowable level.
- Small parts such as the accelerator stop, sear, sear spring, and bolt stud, etc. should be thoroughly doused with Gunzilla and set aside to bleed into a
rag. This will make them easier to reinstall and perform more efficiently.
- The weapon should then be thoroughly soaked with Gunzilla, taking care to saturate:
1. The entire bolt assembly and its every component, with special emphasis on the recesses of the bolt, t-slot, barrel extension threads and trunnion
2. Underside of the top cover, feed pawls and round stop block
3. The inside of the receiver with emphasis on the timing nut and sidewalls
4. Trigger and backplate assembly
5. Drive spring rod assembly
6. Buffer housing and buffer spring assembly
- Then set these parts aside.
- Punch the bore of both barrels with wet patches until they are removed clean, leave the bores wet. Wipe down the exterior of the barrels with a Gunzilla
soaked rag. Soak the barrel threads and teeth. Set aside.
- With a clean rag and cotton swabs (if available), wipe the Gunzilla off the interior of the receiver, and then dry off the bolt, barrel extension, and
buffer assembly.
- Take special care to clean the extractor, the feed mechanism in the top cover and buffer spring.
- Reassemble the receiver.
- Wipe the barrels dry, and then dry patch them until patches come out clean and dry. Use an All-Purpose nylon brush on the threads and teeth, then wipe
dry. Replace the barrels into their respective carrier or screw it into the barrel extension.
- With the weapon fully assembled, lock the bolt to the rear spray Gunzilla onto the exposed rod portion of the drive spring rod. Also, leave a thin coating
on the receiver sidewalls and the bottom, between the buffer assembly and barrel extension and between the bolt and barrel extension. A visibly wet
coating on these parts will be sufficient.
- Work the bolt several times.
- Close top cover, perform functions check.
- Wipe any excess Gunzilla off of the exterior of the weapon.
- The weapon is now ready to fire.
- It is recommended that you load cover closed and maintain Condition 3.
Mk-19 Mod 3, 40mm Grenade Launcher:
-The larger components of the Mk-19 mean that greater care must be taken to inspect parts for defects and to lubricate adequately. Disassemble the
weapon to the maximum allowable level.
- Saturate the feedway, inside of the receiver, chamber and bore with Gunzilla, set aside.
- Move on to the disassembled parts, take care to thoroughly saturate:
1. Charger assemblies
2. Bolt assembly including, bolt face, extractor, ejector and rollers
3. Sear assembly, safety and all springs and radii it contains
4. Primary and secondary drive levers
5. Ogive plunger
6. Round stop block
7. Feed pawls
8. Belt holding pawls
- Then set these parts aside.
- Soak the barrel thong with Gunzilla and punch the bore using SL-3 gear, then force clean rags through the bore until it is clean and dry.
- With a clean rag and cotton swabs (if available), wipe the Gunzilla off the interior of the receiver, and then dry off the bolt, sear, charger and drive
assemblies.
- When dry, reassemble the weapon, using a barely damp Gunzilla soaked rag, wipe down the exterior of the weapon and then wipe dry with a clean rag.
This will help keep a dusty buildup from adhering to the weapon.
- Function check the weapon, then lock the bolt to the rear.
- A thin coating of Gunzilla on the interior of the receiver will be sufficient lubrication for the desert. The thin coating will cut down on malfunctions by
not allowing the broken bits of ammunition link to stick to the interior parts and gouge the moving parts.
- Work the bolt a few times and close the cover. Wipe dry any excess Gunzilla which has found its way on the exterior.
- The weapon is now ready to fire.
- It is recommended that you load cover closed.
M9 Pistol:
- Disassemble the pistol to the maximum allowable level.
- Swab the bore with Gunzilla and leave wet.
- Move on to the disassembled parts, take care to thoroughly saturate:
1. Underside of the slide and rails
2. Firing pin aperture
3. Extractor
4. Ejector
5. Barrel link and stop
6. Magazine well
7. Recoil spring
8. Guide rod
9. Frame rails
- Punch the bore with wet patches until they are removed clean, and then set aside leaving the bore wet.
- With a clean rag and cotton swabs (if available), wipe the Gunzilla off the underside of the slide and then dry off the magazine well and take special care
to clean the extractor, slide face and ejector.
- Dry patch the barrel until patches come out clean and dry.
- Replace the barrel link and stop.
- Wipe the entire pistol dry.
- Apply a thin coat of Gunzilla to the rails. After 5 minutes wipe the rails completely dry.
- Reassemble the entire weapon.
- Wipe the entire exterior of the weapon as dry as possible.
- Perform a function check, the weapon is now ready for firing.
- Note that for increased reliability, disassemble, clean and wipe dry the M9 magazines and springs.
M203 Grenade Launcher:
- The clip on attachment may need to be removed if there is dirt, sand or grime between the adapter and the receiver, or the adapter and the slip ring of the
rifle.
- Disassemble the launcher to the maximum allowable level.
- Saturate the bore of the launcher, face of the receiver and the barrel channel and slide.
- Wipe down the entire exterior of the launcher with a Gunzilla soaked rag.
- Soak the barrel thong pull through and punch the bore.
- Then stuff clean rags down the bore and out the muzzle. Repeat until the bore is dry.
- With a clean rag and cotton swabs (if available), wipe the Gunzilla off every component of the receiver and barrel channel.
- Reassemble the weapon.
- Wipe any excess remaining Gunzilla dry with a rag.
- Wipe the entire interior and exterior of the weapon as dry as possible.
- Perform a function check, the weapon is now ready for firing.
Mortarmen Instructions for the M252 & M224
General Maintenance for Temperate & Hot Weather
- While the current issue CLP is not approved for use on the mortar systems, however, its use in the field is still a fact of life. Gunzilla CLP can replace
the toxic Rifle Bore Cleaner and Medium and Special Oils currently in service. Gunzilla can reduce carbon, embers and blast ring buildup in the cannon
tube during firing and allow for heavier and longer fire-for-effect missions to be run. While we still recommend running the cleaning staff in between long
fire missions, its need will be noticeably reduced. Gunzilla will also work on the new titanium cannon tubes soon coming into service.
First Time Maintenance
Should be conducted per unit SOP with the following exceptions:
- The cannon tube, breechblock, firing pin and blast attenuator device should be thoroughly soaked with Gunzilla and left to sit for at least 20
minutes or a maximum allowable time.
- Remove the firing pin, clean and wipe dry.
- Using clean rags, wipe the barrel dry.
- Reassemble the cannon tube with firing pin.
- The use of Gunzilla on the exterior will prevent corrosion during storage; the exterior may be wiped dry if desired.
- Clean the bipod and its legs with Gunzilla to maintain smooth operation.
Prefiring
- Should be conducted per unit SOP substituting Gunzilla CLP for the lubricant.
During Firing
- Should be conducted per unit SOP, however, the unique capabilities of Gunzilla CLP being taken into account.
Post Firing
- With the cannon still warm or hot, disassemble per SOP and apply a generous amount of Gunzilla CLP.
- Swab several times and allow to sit for several minutes.
- Clean and lubricate the bipod.
- Return to the cannon and wipe it dry.
- A light coat on the bore of the cannon will continue to protect and displace remaining carbon and buildup until the next action.
These directions reflect the difference in the capabilities and usage of Gunzilla CLP and the current issue CLP. Gunzilla can extend the number of rounds fired between maintenance however, do not fail to clean and lubricate with the same frequency you normally would. Simply because you can confidently put it off is no excuse for poor maintenance habits. Remember, do not apply anything to the weapon besides Gunzilla, standard CLP will attract and hold sand, dust and dirt, Gunzilla will not. Sand, dust and dirt can be blown off, or dusted away with a simple paintbrush while on patrol.
M16A2 / C7A2 / M16A4 Rifles & M4 Carbine:
- The service rifle and service carbine should be broken down completely and the bolt and bolt carrier completely disassembled to the maximum allowable
level. If M203 is attached see M203 below for instructions.
- The interior of the weapon should be thoroughly soaked with Gunzilla, taking care to saturate the entire bolt assembly and its every component, the
underside of the charging handle and the inside of the upper and lower receiver. Then set these parts aside.
- Punch the bore with wet patches until they are removed clean, and then set aside leaving the bore wet.
- Wipe down the entire buffer spring assembly including the tube and take special care to wipe down the buffer spring.
- With a clean rag and cotton swabs (if available), wipe the Gunzilla off the interior of the weapon and dry off the bolt. Squirt Gunzilla on the gas rings
and leave them wet. It is very important to leave the gas rings wet.
- Reassemble the bolt. Then, saturate the bolt a second time, set aside.
- Dry patch the barrel until patches come out clean and dry.
- Leaving the interior of the bolt wet, wipe the exterior of the bolt dry and reassemble the entire weapon.
- Wipe the entire exterior of the weapon with a Gunzilla soaked rag, and then wipe as dry as possible.
- Perform a function check, the weapon is now ready for firing.
- Every cleaning after this one will be much faster.
M249 / C9 Squad Automatic Weapon & M249 Para
- The scaled-down components of the SAW mean it is much more delicate than its parent M240 series of weapons. Disassemble the weapon to
the maximum allowable level.
- The weapon should then be thoroughly soaked with Gunzilla, taking care to saturate:
1. The entire bolt assembly and its every component
2. Underside of the top cover, feed pawls and feedway
3. The inside of the receiver with emphasis on the rails
4. The gas tube, piston and gas regulator
5. Trigger assembly
6. Springs, mainspring and bolt spring
- Then set these parts aside
- Wipe down the exterior and the buffer assembly face.
- Punch the bores of both barrels with wet patches until they are removed clean, and then set aside leaving them wet.
- With a clean rag and cotton swabs (if available), wipe the Gunzilla off the interior of the receiver and gas system, and then dry off the bolt.
- Take special care to clean behind the extractor, and the feed mechanism in the top cover.
- Dry patch the barrels until patches come out clean and dry.
- Once the weapon is clean and dry, reassemble the SAW.
- Wipe the entire exterior of the weapon as dry as possible.
- With a few droplets of Gunzilla, leave the thinnest wet coating along the bolt rails, the rails should seem barely damp.
- Perform a functions check, the weapon is now ready for firing.
- It is recommended that you load cover closed.
M240G / C6 GPMG & M240B Machine Guns:
- Maintenance of the M240 systems benefit from being more robust than the diminutive SAW, however the process is essentially the same with a few
slight differences. Disassemble the weapon to the maximum allowable level.
- The weapon should then be thoroughly soaked with Gunzilla, taking care to saturate:
1. The entire bolt assembly and its every component, with special emphasis on the rollers
2. Underside of the top cover, feed pawls and feed tray
3. The inside of the receiver with emphasis on the rails and sidewalls
4. The gas tube, piston and heavily coat the gas regulator
5. Trigger assembly
6. Drive spring rod assembly
7. Ejection port mouth (M240B only)
- Then set these parts aside.
- Wipe down the exterior and the buffer assembly face.
- Punch the bores of both barrels with wet patches until they are removed clean, and then set aside leaving them wet.
- With a clean rag and cotton swabs (if available), wipe the Gunzilla off the interior of the receiver and gas system, and then dry off the bolt.
- Take special care to clean behind the extractor, and the feed mechanism in the top cover.
- Using an All-Purpose nylon brush, scrub the gas regulators. When they are clean, reapply a thin coat of Gunzilla and reinstall them onto the barrels.
Wipe the exposed exterior dry.
- Dry patch the barrels until patches come out clean and dry.
- Once the weapon has been cleaned and dried off, reassemble the M240.
- Wipe the entire exterior of the weapon as dry as possible.
- With a few droplets of Gunzilla, leave the thinnest wet coating along the bolt rails, bolt rollers and sidewall, the parts should seem barely damp.
- Perform a functions check, the weapon is now ready for firing.
- It is recommended that you load cover closed.
M2 / FN M2HB-QCB Heavy Barrel .50 cal:
- Being a recoil operated system, the M2 is easy to maintain, however, the small nature of the components means special care must be taken to keep
them in working order. Disassemble the weapon to the maximum allowable level.
- Small parts such as the accelerator stop, sear, sear spring, and bolt stud, etc. should be thoroughly doused with Gunzilla and set aside to bleed into a
rag. This will make them easier to reinstall and perform more efficiently.
- The weapon should then be thoroughly soaked with Gunzilla, taking care to saturate:
1. The entire bolt assembly and its every component, with special emphasis on the recesses of the bolt, t-slot, barrel extension threads and trunnion
2. Underside of the top cover, feed pawls and round stop block
3. The inside of the receiver with emphasis on the timing nut and sidewalls
4. Trigger and backplate assembly
5. Drive spring rod assembly
6. Buffer housing and buffer spring assembly
- Then set these parts aside.
- Punch the bore of both barrels with wet patches until they are removed clean, leave the bores wet. Wipe down the exterior of the barrels with a Gunzilla
soaked rag. Soak the barrel threads and teeth. Set aside.
- With a clean rag and cotton swabs (if available), wipe the Gunzilla off the interior of the receiver, and then dry off the bolt, barrel extension, and
buffer assembly.
- Take special care to clean the extractor, the feed mechanism in the top cover and buffer spring.
- Reassemble the receiver.
- Wipe the barrels dry, and then dry patch them until patches come out clean and dry. Use an All-Purpose nylon brush on the threads and teeth, then wipe
dry. Replace the barrels into their respective carrier or screw it into the barrel extension.
- With the weapon fully assembled, lock the bolt to the rear spray Gunzilla onto the exposed rod portion of the drive spring rod. Also, leave a thin coating
on the receiver sidewalls and the bottom, between the buffer assembly and barrel extension and between the bolt and barrel extension. A visibly wet
coating on these parts will be sufficient.
- Work the bolt several times.
- Close top cover, perform functions check.
- Wipe any excess Gunzilla off of the exterior of the weapon.
- The weapon is now ready to fire.
- It is recommended that you load cover closed and maintain Condition 3.
Mk-19 Mod 3, 40mm Grenade Launcher:
-The larger components of the Mk-19 mean that greater care must be taken to inspect parts for defects and to lubricate adequately. Disassemble the
weapon to the maximum allowable level.
- Saturate the feedway, inside of the receiver, chamber and bore with Gunzilla, set aside.
- Move on to the disassembled parts, take care to thoroughly saturate:
1. Charger assemblies
2. Bolt assembly including, bolt face, extractor, ejector and rollers
3. Sear assembly, safety and all springs and radii it contains
4. Primary and secondary drive levers
5. Ogive plunger
6. Round stop block
7. Feed pawls
8. Belt holding pawls
- Then set these parts aside.
- Soak the barrel thong with Gunzilla and punch the bore using SL-3 gear, then force clean rags through the bore until it is clean and dry.
- With a clean rag and cotton swabs (if available), wipe the Gunzilla off the interior of the receiver, and then dry off the bolt, sear, charger and drive
assemblies.
- When dry, reassemble the weapon, using a barely damp Gunzilla soaked rag, wipe down the exterior of the weapon and then wipe dry with a clean rag.
This will help keep a dusty buildup from adhering to the weapon.
- Function check the weapon, then lock the bolt to the rear.
- A thin coating of Gunzilla on the interior of the receiver will be sufficient lubrication for the desert. The thin coating will cut down on malfunctions by
not allowing the broken bits of ammunition link to stick to the interior parts and gouge the moving parts.
- Work the bolt a few times and close the cover. Wipe dry any excess Gunzilla which has found its way on the exterior.
- The weapon is now ready to fire.
- It is recommended that you load cover closed.
M9 Pistol:
- Disassemble the pistol to the maximum allowable level.
- Swab the bore with Gunzilla and leave wet.
- Move on to the disassembled parts, take care to thoroughly saturate:
1. Underside of the slide and rails
2. Firing pin aperture
3. Extractor
4. Ejector
5. Barrel link and stop
6. Magazine well
7. Recoil spring
8. Guide rod
9. Frame rails
- Punch the bore with wet patches until they are removed clean, and then set aside leaving the bore wet.
- With a clean rag and cotton swabs (if available), wipe the Gunzilla off the underside of the slide and then dry off the magazine well and take special care
to clean the extractor, slide face and ejector.
- Dry patch the barrel until patches come out clean and dry.
- Replace the barrel link and stop.
- Wipe the entire pistol dry.
- Apply a thin coat of Gunzilla to the rails. After 5 minutes wipe the rails completely dry.
- Reassemble the entire weapon.
- Wipe the entire exterior of the weapon as dry as possible.
- Perform a function check, the weapon is now ready for firing.
- Note that for increased reliability, disassemble, clean and wipe dry the M9 magazines and springs.
M203 Grenade Launcher:
- The clip on attachment may need to be removed if there is dirt, sand or grime between the adapter and the receiver, or the adapter and the slip ring of the
rifle.
- Disassemble the launcher to the maximum allowable level.
- Saturate the bore of the launcher, face of the receiver and the barrel channel and slide.
- Wipe down the entire exterior of the launcher with a Gunzilla soaked rag.
- Soak the barrel thong pull through and punch the bore.
- Then stuff clean rags down the bore and out the muzzle. Repeat until the bore is dry.
- With a clean rag and cotton swabs (if available), wipe the Gunzilla off every component of the receiver and barrel channel.
- Reassemble the weapon.
- Wipe any excess remaining Gunzilla dry with a rag.
- Wipe the entire interior and exterior of the weapon as dry as possible.
- Perform a function check, the weapon is now ready for firing.
Mortarmen Instructions for the M252 & M224
General Maintenance for Temperate & Hot Weather
- While the current issue CLP is not approved for use on the mortar systems, however, its use in the field is still a fact of life. Gunzilla CLP can replace
the toxic Rifle Bore Cleaner and Medium and Special Oils currently in service. Gunzilla can reduce carbon, embers and blast ring buildup in the cannon
tube during firing and allow for heavier and longer fire-for-effect missions to be run. While we still recommend running the cleaning staff in between long
fire missions, its need will be noticeably reduced. Gunzilla will also work on the new titanium cannon tubes soon coming into service.
First Time Maintenance
Should be conducted per unit SOP with the following exceptions:
- The cannon tube, breechblock, firing pin and blast attenuator device should be thoroughly soaked with Gunzilla and left to sit for at least 20
minutes or a maximum allowable time.
- Remove the firing pin, clean and wipe dry.
- Using clean rags, wipe the barrel dry.
- Reassemble the cannon tube with firing pin.
- The use of Gunzilla on the exterior will prevent corrosion during storage; the exterior may be wiped dry if desired.
- Clean the bipod and its legs with Gunzilla to maintain smooth operation.
Prefiring
- Should be conducted per unit SOP substituting Gunzilla CLP for the lubricant.
During Firing
- Should be conducted per unit SOP, however, the unique capabilities of Gunzilla CLP being taken into account.
Post Firing
- With the cannon still warm or hot, disassemble per SOP and apply a generous amount of Gunzilla CLP.
- Swab several times and allow to sit for several minutes.
- Clean and lubricate the bipod.
- Return to the cannon and wipe it dry.
- A light coat on the bore of the cannon will continue to protect and displace remaining carbon and buildup until the next action.